Riding it February 2027
Saigon to Hanoi, the slow way.
Two thousand-odd kilometres of coast roads, mountain passes and noodle stops, on a small motorbike. A once-in-a-lifetime ride, and the plain-English guide to it that we wished existed.
- about 2,481 km
- 13 stages
- 17–21 days
- first-timers welcome
Small bikes, big country
The idea
A Grand Tour for the rest of us.
Three centuries ago, young Europeans spent a year crossing the Alps to learn how to live. The modern version takes about three weeks, starts in Saigon, and comes with better noodles. Most people only ever do it once. That is rather the point.
Life
The modern Grand Tour
Why three slow weeks on one long road can do what a year in Italy once did.
Read onThe road
A tribute to Top Gear
In 2008 three men rode north on three terrible bikes and showed the world this road.
Read onThe table
Eat your way north
Anthony Bourdain called riding a scooter through Vietnam one of the great joys of life. Here is what to eat along the way.
Read onWhat's in the saddlebags
Everything for the ride, in one place.
Good information about riding Vietnam is scattered across old blog posts and forum threads. We are gathering it here, keeping it current, and saying so when we are not sure.
Routes
Stage-by-stage write-ups with maps, distances and honest difficulty ratings.
OpenGuides
Licences, bikes, weather, budgets and gear, in plain English.
OpenDirectory
Rider-friendly rentals, mechanics, beds and bowls of noodles.
OpenNotice board
Ask a question, find a riding buddy, sell your bike in Hanoi.
OpenTrip planner
Lay out your days, beds and saved map routes in one place.
OpenThe classic line
Saigon to Hanoi
Coast in the south, highlands in the middle and the Ho Chi Minh Road to finish: the classic first-timer's line up the length of Vietnam.
- 1Saigon → Mui Ne267 km
- 2Mui Ne → Da Lat163 km
- 3Da Lat → Nha Trang138 km
- 4Nha Trang → Quy Nhon222 km
- 5Quy Nhon → Kon Tum215 km
- 6Kon Tum → Kham Duc172 km
- 7Kham Duc → Hoi An124 km
- 8Hoi An → Hue132 km
- 9Hue → Khe Sanh175 km
- 10Khe Sanh → Phong Nha232 km
- 11Phong Nha → Tan Ky269 km
- 12Tan Ky → Ninh Binh (Tam Coc)257 km
- 13Ninh Binh (Tam Coc) → Hanoi115 km
More lines on the map
Other rides worth the trip
The inland road the length of the country, the great loops of the far north and north-west, and the slow green south.
The inland line
Ho Chi Minh Road
Saigon to Hanoi without the sea: ten riding days up the Ho Chi Minh Road through coffee highlands, old battlefields and forest.
- 1,886 km
- 13–16 days
- Moderate
The famous one
Ha Giang Loop
Four days of limestone passes, canyon views and hill markets in the far north – spectacular, and not a road to take lightly.
- 303 km
- 4 days
- Challenging
The quiet neighbour
Cao Bang Loop
Waterfalls, caves and karst valleys along the Chinese border, on gentler roads than Ha Giang and with a fraction of the traffic.
- 276 km
- 4–5 days
- Moderate
The long way round
North-west Loop
Eight riding days around the mountains west of Hanoi: Thai valleys, the Dien Bien Phu battlefield, a 2,000 m pass into Sapa and the rice terraces of Mu Cang Chai.
- 1,170 km
- 10–12 days
- Challenging
The gentle warm-up
Mekong Delta Loop
A flat, green week of rivers, ferries and floating markets, from Saigon to the Cambodian border and the Gulf of Thailand and home across the Plain of Reeds.
- 794 km
- 6–9 days
- Easy
On the drawing board
More rides coming
We add a route when we can write it up properly. Tell us which road you want next, or the one we got wrong.
Tell us on the notice boardBefore you go
The boring bits that make the fun bits possible.
Each guide starts with a short version, shows when it was last checked, and lists its sources.
Start here
Start here: can I actually do this?
An honest first look at riding Saigon to Hanoi. How far, how long, how hard, which decisions to make first, and who should think about a different…
5 min readPaperwork
Licences, IDPs & staying legal
What licence you need to ride in Vietnam, which International Driving Permits count, what police stops and fines look like, and why your insurance…
6 min readBikes
Rent or buy? Getting a bike
One-way rental or buy and sell? What each costs, which bike suits which rider, what to check before you ride away, and why your passport stays in…
6 min readPlanning
Guided tour, easy rider or on your own?
The four ways to ride Vietnam, from doing it all yourself to sitting behind a local driver. What each one really gives you, who it suits, roughly…
6 min readPlanning
When to go: weather, seasons & Tết
Vietnam has three climates at once, so no month is perfect everywhere. What each region does through the year, what February is really like, and how…
5 min readGear
Gear & packing list
What to wear and carry for a ride that starts at 33°C and ends in single digits, what to bring from home, what to buy in Vietnam, and a printable…
6 min readThe notice board
Got a question? Pin it up.
A simple bulletin board for riders. Reading is open to everyone; sign in with just your email to post.
Route help
Roads, detours, timings and "is this pass open?"
Bikes & mechanics
Choosing, renting, buying and fixing.
Licences, visas & paperwork
IDPs, insurance, blue cards, borders.
Gear & packing
What to bring and what to leave at home.
The directory
Good people along the road.
We are building a list of rider-friendly businesses, and checking them in person as we ride north.
- Bike rental & sales
- Mechanics & repairs
- Places to stay
- Food & coffee
- Guides & easy riders
- Gear & shops
Run a business on the route? Get listed, free.