The idea

The Grand Tour, on two wheels.

Three hundred years ago, young Europeans were sent across the Alps to finish growing up. The modern version starts in Saigon, takes about three weeks, and costs less than a second-hand car.

Then

What the Grand Tour was

From about the 1660s until the railways came, a young Englishman of means was not considered finished until he had been abroad. He set off in his late teens or at about twenty, with a tutor, a servant or two and a great deal of his father's money, and stayed away for anything from a few months to two or three years. It was, people said, the best way to complete a gentleman's education.

The route barely changed in a century. Across the Channel by sailing packet, which could take a day and a half in bad weather. Paris, for French, dancing, fencing and riding. Then over the Alps and down through Turin, Florence and Venice to Rome for the ruins, and on to Naples for Pompeii and Vesuvius. Home through Vienna, Dresden and Berlin to Holland. The point was not rest. It was to stand in front of the things you had only read about.

Not everyone was convinced. Adam Smith thought the young traveller "commonly returns home more conceited, more unprincipled, more dissipated" than he left. But the habit lasted until the French Revolution and Napoleon's armies closed the Continent in the 1790s. When peace returned in 1815 the roads filled again, this time with people who were not aristocrats. Steamships and railways followed, Thomas Cook ran his first excursion train in 1841 and his first Continental tour in 1855, and the Grand Tour quietly turned into what we now just call travel.

Carried over the Alps

No carriage could cross the Mont Cenis pass. In November 1739 Horace Walpole's coach was taken to pieces and loaded on mules, and he was carried across in an armchair on poles, wrapped in beaver and bearskins. It took twelve men and nine mules.

A wolf took the dog

The day before the crossing, a young wolf seized Walpole's spaniel, Tory, from right beside the horses.

A minder called a bear-leader

The tutor who went along as teacher, guardian and keeper of the money was known, with some feeling, as the young man's bear-leader.

A portrait to prove it

In Rome the thing to bring home was your own likeness, posed among the antiquities. The painter Pompeo Batoni recorded more than two hundred British visitors this way.

A man who has not been in Italy, is always conscious of an inferiority, from his not having seen what it is expected a man should see.
Samuel Johnson · at dinner in April 1776, as recorded by James Boswell. He hoped to go himself. He never did.

Then and now

Same idea. Smaller engine.

Who goes
Then: Rich young men of about twenty, with a tutor in tow.
Now: Anyone with a few weeks, a valid licence and a sense of humour. Plenty are over sixty.
How long
Then: A few months to two or three years.
Now: Two to four weeks.
The route
Then: Dover, Paris, over the Alps, Florence, Venice, Rome, Naples, and home through Germany and Holland.
Now: Saigon, the coast, the highlands, Hoi An, Hue, the Ho Chi Minh Road, Hanoi.
Transport
Then: Sailing packet, a coach bought at Calais, and a chair over the passes.
Now: A small Honda and, once or twice, a ferry.
Your guide
Then: A bear-leader, paid to keep you at your books and out of trouble.
Now: A phone, a paper map for when it dies, and whoever is at the next table.
The syllabus
Then: Ruins, paintings, French, fencing, dancing.
Now: Limestone, rice terraces, noodle soup, and how to cross a road.
What comes home
Then: Paintings, prints, marble, and a portrait of yourself looking thoughtful.
Now: A jacket made for you in Hoi An, a great many photographs, firm opinions about fish sauce.
The bill
Then: A fortune. One family's three-year tour in the 1790s cost about £412,000 in today's money, and was thought cheap.
Now: Roughly US$650 to US$3,100 for three weeks, before flights.
The hard part
Then: Bandits, pirates, seasickness, wolves, the Alps.
Now: Rain, trucks, a sore backside, and choosing where to stop for lunch.

What it is for

Three things worth slowing down for

Nobody rides the length of Vietnam to save time. You go for the same reasons they crossed the Alps: to look properly, eat properly, and come home slightly different.

Life

Three weeks with one job a day: reach the next town. People come home having remembered how to be unhurried, and how to talk to strangers.

Start here: can I do this?

Food

A different local dish in nearly every town, eaten on a small plastic stool for less than a coffee costs at home. It is the best reason to keep the days short.

Eat your way north

Landscape

Dunes, pine forest, limestone, cloud forest and rice terraces, with the sea beside you for days at a time. From a saddle you can smell all of it.

See the routes

Who gets to go

The original Grand Tour was for rich young men. Women went rarely, usually with a husband or a brother, though a few wrote the best accounts of it: Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, Lady Anna Miller, and Mariana Starke, whose letters from Italy became a guidebook. Nearly everyone else stayed at home.

The modern one is far more open, and still not for everybody. You need the time, a licence Vietnam recognises (our licence guide is blunt about that), and enough stamina to sit on a small bike for five hours.

If riding is not for you, the back seat behind a local driver sees exactly the same country. Our guide to tours, drivers and going it alone lays out the choices.

Once is enough

Hardly anyone made the Grand Tour twice. It was understood as a chapter: you went, it changed how you saw things, and you spent the rest of your life mentioning it at dinner.

This ride is the same. It is long enough to be hard to repeat and short enough to actually do. If you have been saying "one day" about a trip like this, the only practical question left is which month.

And there is a pleasing echo. When the three presenters of Top Gear left the BBC, they named their next programme The Grand Tour, after exactly this tradition. For many people their best hour of television had been a motorbike ride through Vietnam.

Sources and further reading

Facts on this page were last checked on 14 Nov 2026.

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